I think we all need to accept that we contributed to losing the quaint - money coming in pays for the neon lights and slick, higher quality restaurants. I love the (not so) new Kordon and restaurants like Mancero, Carikli & Yengec, but sorely miss the days where a night at the Yakamoz (RIP) was the peak of style and quality.
Anyway, back to the smelly canal...